9/12/2023 0 Comments Stiles and rails joints![]() ![]() ![]() There is a wide variety of bits and shaper cutters available that cut “cope and stick” joints for cabinet dimensioned stock (3/4-in. ![]() In order to make the “cope and stick” joint, you either need a special router bit or use a shaper table with a shaper cutter. There are a variety of matched bits available to use such as ogee, bead edge, round edge and traditional. In order to make the “cope and stick” joint you either need a special router bit or use a shaper table with a shaper cutter. A special cut made in the end of the rail is called a “cope.” Reversible Shaper Bit Set In “cope and stick” door construction, the “sticking” is the panel groove and the decorative profile on the interior edge of the frame. When setting up this stop block, make sure you measure from the edge of the saw kerf to your block. I use a stop-block jig, either clamped to my miter saw fence or screwed to the miter table. When cutting parts to the same length on a miter saw, it’s best to use a jig that allows you to measure once and make your repetitive cuts. Making multiple identical sized cuts, over and over again, is time consuming and can also lead to mistakes in measuring through graduated error. That measurement will allow for a 1⁄2-in. Note: Lay out the rails by adding 1 inch to the final inside width of the frame. Once all the parts were ripped to width, I cleaned up the edges on a jointer before cutting them to length on a miter saw. I ripped all the parts on a table saw to 2-3/4 inches and ensured that I had one or two extra in case of a mis-cut or tear-out. I used Poplar wood for my stiles and rails on the cabinet doors. For these shaker-style cabinet doors, the legs and stiles measured 2-3/4″ wide. Larger doors may require a mid-rail or stile. This allows the panel to expand and contract with seasonal humidity without affecting the stable shape and size of the door. ![]() The door panel is always sized slightly smaller than actual dimensions of the grooved style and rail frame. The strength of the joint relies on a near-perfect match between the cope and the sticking, which is achieved by using bits designed specifically for a shaper or router table. To complete the joint, the two matching profiles are simply glued and clamped together. The “sticking”-the panel groove and the decorative profile on the interior edge of the frame-is matched by a special cut in the end of the rail called a “cope.” The stiles are the longer parts of the door frame and receive the “sticking” (milled profile), and the rails are the shorter parts which receive the coped profile. Rip legs and stiles to width on a table saw. In “cope and stick” door construction, the cabinet door frame is held together by a joint between the edge of the “stiles” (the vertical members of the frame) and the “rails” (the horizontal members of the frame). I recently was asked to make a built-in cabinet for a remodel to match a client’s Shaker style doors, which featured flat panels and beveled stiles and rails. “Cope and stick” construction is not new it’s been around for hundreds of years and is useful to negate the effects of moisture on solid wood used to make doors, furniture and wainscoting. I use “cope and stick” joinery because it makes a good looking and sturdy frame for cabinet doors. These terms are interchangeable and have long been a hallmark of fine cabinetry. The terms “cope and stick,” “frame and panel,” and “stile and rail” are synonymous with a certain construction technique for doors. How to Make “Cope and Stick” Doors for Cabinets By Rob Robillard
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